Restaurants, Wine Bars and Dessert Spots
There are extensive ideas for dining in the guidebooks and regional materials supplied with the house. To make it easier, we have made some suggestions based on our (and other guests') experiences and list them here by locale. The food varies from good, traditional Umbrian/Tuscan fare to more innovative menus that spring from local tradition. Hours and closing days may change, and there have been some closures during the pandemic, so be sure to call for reservations in advance. If the phone number doesn’t work, check the website.
Castello di Sorci. Anghiari. Traditional cuisine served abundantly in family style at a restaurant next to a castle overlooking the verdant Upper Tiber Valley. The castle is said to be haunted by the ghost of a murdered condottiere. Inexpensive. Closed Monday. Ph: 0575-789-066 www.castellodisorci.it
La Nena. Anghiari. Popular local restaurant in a beautiful medieval town offering consistently good Tuscan food. It’s bit of a trek to La Nena, up the long, steep street that divides Anghiari, so park in the city lot above. Closed Monday. Ph: 0575-789-491, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 14, www.ristorantenena.it.
Ristorante da Alighiero. Anghiari. A well presented, well prepared menu featuring an updated version of the typical cuisine of this area. A nice spot for lunch in Anghiari’s historic center, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 8. Closed Tuesday. Ph: 0575-788-040 www.daalighiero.it
CITTÀ DI CASTELLO
Trattoria Lea. Città di Castello. A popular trattoria that fills up quickly. Good home cooking in the Umbrian style. Friday is fresh fish day and truffles are served in season. When full of its local business clientele, the rooms can get noisy. Helpful staff. New location on the main piazza, next to the Paci bookstore. Closed Monday. Ph: 075-852-1678, www.trattorialea.it
CORTONA AND ENVIRONS
La Corte Dei Papi. Pergo, outside Cortona. Lovely restaurant in a beautiful old hotel. Classic Tuscan menu. Ph: 057-561-4109. Via La Dogana 12. http://www.lacortedeipapi.com
Il Falconiere. Outside of Cortona, S. Martino, 370. Fine dining in an elegant country setting. Ph: 0575-612-679. www.ilfalconiere.com
Trattoria La Grotta. Cortona. Just off the main piazza and down a little alley, the popular La Grotta is known for its delicious gnocchi and scores highly on traditional Tuscan dishes, such as bistecca fiorentina, as well. Attractive surroundings, affordable prices. Closed Tuesday. Piazza Baldelli, 3. Ph : 0575-630-271. www.trattorialagrotta.it
Osteria del Teatro. Cortona. This restaurant is another favorite of ours, on a side street up from the Teatro Signorelli. Try the steak wrapped with lardo di colonnata and topped with a prune! Some dining rooms prettier than others, tiny streetside terrace in summer. Closed Wednesday. Via Giuseppe Maffei, 2. Ph: 057-563-0556. www.osteria-del-teatro.it
La Locanda del Molino. This attractive country restaurant by an old mill stream is a lovely place to dine when travelling back from Cortona to our Altabella properties. It's located in the tiny hamlet of Montanare, along the main road just before you start back up over the mountain. Ph: 0575-614-054. www.locandadelmolino.com
La Locanda nel Loggiato. On a warm summer day, if you can nab a table overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, you'll enjoy a fine meal in an unforgettable setting. Closed Wed. Piazza di Pescheria, 3. Ph: 0575-630-575. www.locandanelloggiato.it
Bosone Garden. Gubbio. An elegant place with courtyard seating serving Umbrian specialties. Perfect for lunch on a warm summer’s day. Closed Wednesday. Ph: 075-922-1246. Via Mastro Giorgio, 1. www.ristorantebosonegarden.com
Taverna del Lupo. Gubbio. A consistent favorite with guests. Named for St. Francis’ miraculous encounter with the wolf, one of Gubbio’s claims to fame. Menu is typically Umbrian. Ph: 075-927-3291. Via Ansidei 6, www.mencarelligroup.com
Da Sauro. Isola Maggiore, Lake Trasimeno. Pleasant in- or outdoor dining on the largest island in Lake Trasimeno, reachable by ferry from the Tuoro pier. Highly rated. Lake fish a specialty. Ph: 075-826-168. www.dasauro.it
La Cantina, Castiglione del Lago. Inside you are served in an ancient wine cellar while outside you dine on the garden terrace with lovely views of the lake. Lake fish as well as Umbrian specialties. Walk through town toward the castel to Via Vittorio Emanuele 91. 075-965-2463. www.ristorantecantina.it
Trattoria del Pescatore. Passignano. Located in the heart of a pretty lakeside town, this popular, charming old restaurant offers fish from the lake and wines from the Lake Trasimeno wine zone. Outdoor dining in the summer. Via San Bernardino 5. 075-829-6063. www.delpescatore.com
Il Coccorone. Montefalco, Località Fabbri. Coccorone prepares classic Umbrian food in innovative ways. A popular spot. House specialty is a risotto made with the local Sagrantino wine. Call for reservations. Closed for lunch on Wed. Ph: 0742-379-535. www.coccorone.com
MONTE SANTA MARIA TIBURINA
Bar Ristorante Oscari. Monte Santa Maria Tiburina. Situated in a tiny, picture perfect hill town built around what was once one of the most important castles in the Upper Tiber Valley. Offers local dishes and grilled meats. Closed Thursday. Ph: 075-857-1023. www.oscariristorante.it
Erbaluna. Montone. This restaurant, in an impressive medieval setting, is built into the ancient walls near the top of city, and features garden dining in nice weather. Closed Tuesdays in winter, open every day in summer. Ph: 075-930-6405. www.erbalunaristorante.com
Calagrana. Bastia Creti. Sophisticated, very good local fare updated, served in an old farmhouse, beautiful views over the Niccone valley. Try the goat ribs! Open evenings and on Sunday for lunch. Ph: 075-941-0865 / 338-621-6577. www.calagrana.com
Ristorante Girasole di Sant’Andrea, Molino Vitelli. Located along the main road through the Niccone valley, Simone offers creative lunches and dinners, with freshly baked breads, Chianina beef, and wines from the Gritti Cantina, located around in the back (where guests can purchase wine directly and book a vineyard tour and tasting). Playground for children. Closed Thursday. Ph: 075-941-0798. www.ristorantegirasole.it
Le Capannine di Sommavilla. Located just after Sant’Andrea di Sorbello, on the left in the direction of Umbertide. Cristina makes a wonderful buffet brunch and lunch on Sundays, as well as evening meals and, occasionally, there is entertainment. Organic produce, wines, preserves, and goat cheeses are sold. Closed Mon, Tues and Wed. Call to make sure they’re open. Ph: 0575-638-112 / 333-105-7509. www.sommavilla.org
Nonna Gelsa. Niccone, in the heart of the village on the road to Umbertide. Very popular with local citizens and tourists alike, Nonna Gelsa is a charming trattoria featuring an updated Umbrian menu – vegetarian antipasti, homemade pastas, grilled meats, seasonal vegetables, and tasty desserts. Local artwork on display. The charming owner, Chiara, speaks English. Playground for children in the back, outdoor dining in the summer. Open Sunday, closed Tuesday. Children welcome. Ph: 075-941-0699. www.locandadinonnagelsa.com
Osteria Bar Pino. Located along the main road through the valley, near Reschio and Menghacini. Great stopping place for a light lunch or dinner, to pick up a bottle of wine, or just have coffee and a pastry. A great favorite of the local farmers and hunters, it can be noisy inside, but outdoor dining is available in the warmer months. 333-476-1255 or 333-595-7071.
Trattoria Mimmi. Mercatale, on the road to Cortona. An historic restaurant that is close to Altabella, Mimmi offers a traditional, multi-course fixed price meal from a set menu. Wonderful homemade pasta. Perfect for large groups, especially with children, as Mimmi is a grandmother herself. Usually open every day for lunch and dinner. Ph: 057-561-9029. www.tuscanydimimmi.it
Da Gianna. Lisciano Niccone. Located just as you enter Lisciano Niccone, up the hill on the right, Gianna offers reasonably priced Umbrian and Sardinian dishes at lunch and dinner, and fires up the pizza oven in the evenings. In the warmer months, enjoy outdoor dining on the terrace. Ph: 331-791-9737.
De Licius. Lisciano Niccone. An unassuming location hides a pizzeria and tiny enoteca very popular with the locals. On the left as you enter town, next to the pharmacy. Ph:338 811 6012,
Scuderie at the Reschio Castle. On the way to Mercatale, turn left at the sign for Reschio. On beautifully landscaped grounds, our fanciest restaurant! Stop in for cocktails and check it out. Expensive. 075 844 216.
PIERANTONIO (just south of Umbertide)
Ristorante Il Caldaro. La Bruna, near Pierantonio. Elegant interior in a beautifully restored farmhouse, traditional food with a modern presentation, outdoor dining with a view over the fields in the summer. Reasonable prices for excellent quality. Località La Bruna 32, open every night and Friday through Sunday for lunch. Ph: 075 782 0516 or 327-734-7710, www.ilcaldaro.it
Osteria a Priori. Perugia. Featuring wonderful local foods such as lentils, potatoes, onions, truffles, meats and other local specialties which are found only in Umbria, and have been singled out by the Slow Food movement. Closed Sunday. Via dei Priori, 39. Ph: 075-572-7098. www.osteriaapriori.it
PREGGIO (the little hilltown near the Altabella houses)
La Castagna. Preggio, about 5 miles from our property. Chaming restaurant in a hilltop village. Specialties include truffles and porcini cooked with polenta, risotto, grilled meats, fresh pasta. Great views back to the Altabella houses from the terrace in summer. Service can be slow! Call to make sure they are open and reserve. Usually open for lunch on Sunday. 13 Via del Forno. Ph: 075-941-02940.
Ristorante Da Ventura. Just down from the Museo Civico, this well-regarded restaurant serves grilled meats like Fiorentina beefsteak or Chianti Classico wine brasato, a large choice of vegetables, and a cart full of sweets as a happy ending. Closed Monday. Via Aggiunti Niccolò, 30. Ph: 0575-742-560. www.albergodaventura.it
Le Tre Vaselle, Torgiano. Elegant restaurant owned by the Lungarotti wine family. Excellent food, beautiful ambience, near both the Wine and Olive Oil museums, also created by the family. Expensive and very busy during the high season. Via Garibaldi 48. Ph: 075-988-0447. www.3vaselle.it
L’Abbazia di Montecorona. Umbertide. Located in a beautiful, historic abbey on the outskirts the city, Samantha serves typical Umbria food in an elegant setting. Very popular with locals, open for lunch and dinner. Entering town from the direction of Niccone, turn right opposite the service station just before the bridge over the Tiber, drive under the train tracks and continue on to the abbey. Via Badia di Montecorona, 318/A. Reservations necessary: 075 941 7877, 329 017 2127.
Ristorante La Rocca. Umbertide. Seafood restaurant with a view of the La Rocca tower. Outdoor seating under the tent. Nice for lunch after the Wednesday morning market. Closed Monday. Piazza Caduti Del Lavoro 4. Ph: 075-941-1828.
Ristorante San Giorgio. Umbertide. Tucked away under the arches in the main square, Piazza Matteotti, this restaurant is another favorite, with a sophisticated menu. Closed Tuesday. Via Mancini. Ph: 075-941-2944. www.ristorante-sangiorgio.it
It’s hard to find bad gelato and every town has a good gelateria. Note that many gelaterie are not open in winter.
Delizia Gelateria, Umbertide. Across from the train station near the bread shop. Enjoy your cup or cone at an outside table under the tent. Very popular.
La Bottega del Gelato, Umbertide, located on the ground floor of “the skyscraper”, behind the Coop near the lawn, is a gelateria, a yogurteria, and also serves crepes, dessert waffles and cakes. Ph. 331-456-3782
Bar Euro. Umbertide, via Martiri della Libertà by the traffic circle. On the corner across from Lube furniture store, the coffee bar faces via Morandi and its bakery around the corner faces via Martiri. Just the place to relax after shopping at the Coop supermarket, down the street.
Dolce Forno, Mercatale. Just 15 minutes from Altabella, this is a great little bakery and bread shop selling pastries, a variety of breads, cookies and desserts. Next to the Trattoria Mimmi on the road to Cortona. 0575-619-303. Closed Sunday.
L'Enoteca Wine Club, Umbertide. Patrick speaks English, having worked in London, and gives tastings and wine tours as well as advice about his excellent selection of wines; Antonella produces small meals for accompaniment. Next to Pina’s River Cafe and the ERG gas station just before you cross the bridge going into Umbertide at Via V. Gabriotti. Closed Sunday and Monday. Ph: 333-732-8211. www.enotecawineclub.com
Bani Enoteca, Umbertide, Via Garibaldi 37, across from the train station, Ezio specializes in small producers from all over Italy. Open afternoons, Tuesday- Saturday. Via Garibaldi, 37. Ph: 075-942-0316.
Molesini Enoteca, Cortona. Molesini will help you choose then ship your wine home to you. When you run out, order more via his website. Piazza della Repubblica, 22. Ph: 0575-62544. www.molesini-market.com
Enoteca di Piazza, Montalcino. If you don't have a lot of time in Montalcino, go to the wine shop that has all the Brunello that you could ask for. Piazza Garabaldi 4. Ph: 0577-849-194. www.enotecadipiazza.com
Lo Spiedo Rosticceria and Gastronomia, Umbertide, convenient food takeaway located next to the pasta shop and across from Conad, Via Martiri della Libertà, 4. A real plus: open Sunday mornings! (This great little shopping area also boasts shops that sell meat, wine, pasta, and stationery, as well as a bakery, pizzeria, bank and the Bar Euro.) Ph: 075-941-5137
Do you have a favorite that’s not listed here? Tell us about it!
Revised July 2021